Wine Stories

Lucente 2020: The Second Wine That Doesn't Play Second Fiddle

Luce della Vite · 2020 · Merlot, Sangiovese
Italy · Tuscany · Toscana IGT · Tenuta Luce
Luce della Vite, Tenuta Luce
Lucente 2020
Italy Tuscany, Toscana IGT
James Suckling 93 /100

Luce della Vite was born from an unlikely handshake across the Atlantic. On one side — Marchese Frescobaldi, a Florentine dynasty with seven centuries of Tuscan land and winemaking behind them, a family whose banking operations once financed the English Crown and whose vineyards predate the Renaissance. On the other — Robert Mondavi, the man who turned Napa Valley from a provincial curiosity into a global fine-wine address. When the two families agreed to create a joint estate in Montalcino in the early 1990s, the logic was clean: Frescobaldi brought the terroir and the heritage; Mondavi brought the ambition and the modern vision. The result was Tenuta Luce — and the flagship wine that carries its name is, to this day, one of the most recognisable Tuscan blends in the world.

Montalcino is a compact hill town in southern Tuscany, and its fame rests almost entirely on a single wine: Brunello di Montalcino, the long-lived, structured expression of Sangiovese that ranks among Italy's greatest reds. Tenuta Luce sits in the southwest of Montalcino, at altitude — vines planted between 230 and 450 metres, with south and southwest exposure. The estate is not uniform: the upper plots, with sandstone and limestone, are where Sangiovese finds its footing, gaining tension and structure from the stony, well-drained soils; the lower slopes, heavier with clay, are where Merlot builds its case — more body, more ripeness, a fuller and darker expression. That split is not incidental. It is the whole point of the blend.

Lucente is the second label of Tenuta Luce, and calling it simply a second wine would miss the point entirely. The name means shining in Italian, and the wine was built from the start as a distinct proposition — not a declassification, but a younger-vine, earlier-drinking expression of the same estate. The blend for the 2020 vintage is Merlot-dominant, with Sangiovese in support; exact percentages are not disclosed by the producer, which is itself a statement of intent — the emphasis is on the blend as a whole, not its arithmetic. Winemaking by Alessandro Marini — the estate's oenologist and technical director since 2019 — involved fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel, 20 days of skin maceration, and 12 months in barriques, a combination of new and used oak.

The 2020 Tuscan growing season was broadly favourable — warm and dry, with well-timed rainfall during the critical phases. Concentrated fruit, naturally balanced ripeness, none of the stress that mars the great heatwave vintages of the south.

I opened it at home with a with a dry-aged Rozbratna Reserve — rozbratna being the Serbian word for ribeye — from Jokić butchery — medium rare, with the juices still running on the board — and the pairing made the kind of obvious sense that doesn't need explaining. The asparagus alongside it was a different story, but the wine didn't hold it against me. Lucente doesn't try to be Luce, and it is completely honest about that. It knows exactly what it is — and in the right company, that is more than enough.

At the Table

Pairs well with

Tagliata
01 Tagliata
Lamb shank
02 Lamb shank
Pappardelle al ragu
03 Pappardelle al ragu
Aged hard cheeses
04 Aged hard cheeses